Plitvice National Park
We were up early today in order to get to Plitvice National Park and beat some of the crowds. Our original plan was to do tour program C, starting with the great waterfall then head towards the upper lakes. However when we were checking out, our airbnb host suggested that we do the H program. He explained that we would start high and only have to walk downhill the rest of the way. Not having to walk uphill sounded good to us, so we headed to entrance 2 of the park to start program H. We knew it would be an awesome day, as even the walk from the parking lot to the ticket office afforded us an amazing view of the region.
We purchased our tickets and made our way to the “train station” which is really a big multi car bus.
When we arrived we were a bit sad to see that as early as we thought we were, there was already a crowd at the bus stop. In fact it looked like there were two full Asian tour groups already waiting for the bus when we arrived. We didn’t know exactly how big the “train” was so there was some concern that there might not be enough room. However when it arrived and we saw how big it was there was a small sense of relief. When the doors opened though, it felt like a Walmart black Friday sale, as all semblance of order went out the window and EVERYONE started to rush the bus! Thankfully Gimpy, Vino and myself were near the door and was able to get on, but the amount of people, shoving and pushing was crazy!
Trail H – Upper Lakes
Once the bus was packed with as many people it could hold, we were off. The bus took us from station 2 to station 3 near the upper lakes. When we got off, most of the tour groups, thankfully, went in another direction (Not program H). So we were relieved and headed in the direction of “H”.
Once we got on the trail, I was really glad we decided to go this route. We pretty much had the entire trail, lakes and scenery to ourselves. It was beautiful! The trail itself is well marked with lots of raised boardwalks and developed pathways.
With the morning sun reflecting off the water, we savoured our stroll through the upper lake area! I think in total we passed/crossed four people, so to have that moment of isolation in such a wonderful part of God’s creation was really a gift!
Electric Boat
Part of the H Program, is an electric boat ride across Lake Kozjak. We knew our time of “seclusion” was ending since, the closer we got to the dock the more people we started to encounter. Regardless, the the Lake and the boat ride is just as amazing as the upper lakes were. The water was peacefully calm, and the morning ride in the sun across the lake was incredibly soothing. After walking for a few hours already, it was nice to have a seat and take a moment to take in everything we were seeing and experiencing.
Lower Lakes
Once on the other side of the lake, we were now in the Lower Lake area. Traditionally this is the more popular side of the park and where a majority of the fanfare is. We continued to walk program H, however, we no longer had the place to ourselves. The trails became much more crowded. I’m not sure if its because of the crowds or if we were spoiled by the upper lakes, but I enjoyed the lower portion of the lakes less than the upper portion. While the scenery was still lovely, I didn’t find it as mesmerizing as what we had experienced in the morning.
The Cave
One cool thing though, is that partway down the trail, it forks and you have the option of going through a cave/hole in the cliff that takes you to the top of the canyon overlooking the lakes. There are a few warnings about the cave as it is fairly steep and might have the existence of bats. Gimpy and I decided to venture in.
The cave walk is pretty cool and does have a lot of stairs. But going through the cave is quite an experience and I enjoyed it a lot. At the top you do get a great view of the pools below. I think that the top also joins Program H, but at a later point, so Gimpy and I had to trek back down through the cave to rejoin Vino. This way we could all continue our trail properly knowing we would eventually end up at the top of the cave.
Great Falls
After a little more walking, and navigating through traffic, we arrived at the Great falls. If we went with our original plan of doing program C, this would have been where we started. The thought was we’d avoid the crowds at this main attraction early, and then walk up the trail. After seeing the falls, I’m glad we changed. Nothing against the falls themselves as it is a lovely piece of nature. I just wasn’t “super” impressed. Maybe I’m just spoiled having seen some pretty cool waterfalls in my travels, but it wasn’t as “Grand” as I thought it would be. Nonetheless, we took our requisite photos and continued our program walk.
Eventually our path led up the cliff and to where we had popped out of the cave trail earlier. There were a few view points that allowed us to get an elevated view of the lower lakes, which was lovely. I think this is the picture many people take of the entire area and I can see why.
After a little more walking, we eventually arrived at station 1 of the train which then took us back to station 2, which is where we started. We stopped off at a picnic table to have lunch which we picked up the day before from a bakery.
All in all it took us all morning and some of the early afternoon to complete the entire trail. It wasn’t strenuous at all, in fact it was rather relaxing. I think the only contentious part is navigating the narrow boardwalks when there are crowds and crowds of people on them. We came during the low season, so I can’t imagine what it would have been like during high season. It’s certainly something to keep in mind when/if you plan a visit.
Stari Fijaker
We returned to our cars, and resumed the drive back to Zagreb. The drive was uneventful and in a few hours we were driving through the streets of Zagreb to our AirBnB. By the time we were settled, it was early evening, o we decided to head out and have dinner. Vino had researched a fairly traditional Croatian eatery called Stari Fijaker.
We all shared a “Beef Noodle soup” which came in a large pot that was split between the three of us. I then ordered Pork cutlets Samobor style which was really good. Anytime I can get a good meat with lots of sauce and potatoes, I’m going to be happy!
Zagreb at Night
After dinner, we decided to walk around a little. Gimpy and I already had a day to explore, but Vino didn’t yet. We ended up walking through a very cool tunnel system called the Gric Tunnel. This eventually led us to the main plaza. From there we walked to the Cathedral to check it out at night and see some it lit up.
The girls did some shopping at a local department store before we all hopped on a tram back to our AirBnB. It’d been a really long day and so we all crashed pretty quickly after showering. Tomorrow would be our last full day before making the long trek home.